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Inca Trail: Day 2
Day 2 on the Inca Trail was the least fun of the trip. We had to climb 1,200m to get up and over "Dead Woman's Pass". Wilbert, our guide's plan was to get going as soon as it was light (around 5:30am) and aim to reach our campsite at lunch time. His reasoning was to get most of the actual climbing done while we were in the shadow of the tall mountains around us. It also made life simpler for the support team who wouldn't have to pick somewhere en route, unpack to make lunch, and then pack up again to get to the campsite. He also, I think, quite liked the idea of catching up with the group that were ahead of us who were starting around 700m up the climb and who would be having lunch at our evening campsite. In the event we arrived at our campsite about 2 hours after they had left, having another pass to go over before they got to their campsite for the night.
We were on modern trails, according to Wilbert, and although I think we passed some Inca ruins at a campsite en route, we didn't look at them. Wilbert's explanation for the route wasn't entirely clear. As I understood it the original Inca road went over a different pass, though I never figured out if it was higher or lower. I got the impression a large section of the road from Cusco to Machu Picchu was destroyed by the Inca themselves, triggering landslides, in order to prevent the Spanish finding their way along it, so maybe that explains why we were following a modern alternative.
We started at about 3000m. At around 3,700m I began to feel quite tired and a little concerned about the 500m still go. At 3,900m as we came out of the shade and into the sun, my legs felt like lead and I made it up to the pass only by doggedly walking 300 steps and then stopping (300 steps, if you are interested, gets you up about 50m). At the time we put this down to the fact Manchester is super-flat and so our uphill muscles don't get a lot of exercise. However, I wasn't remotely stiff the next day, at which point it occured to us to measure my blood oxygen using my watch. It was down at 81%, rising to 88% if I took several deep breaths (B., in contrast was generally in the high 80s/low 90s). So it's possible the issue was lack of blood oxygen - even though I wasn't showing any other symptoms of altitude sickness.
Once over the pass we descended around 600m to our campsite. I badly wanted to go to sleep, but B. and Wilbert forced me to have some lunch first. Then I slept for an hour, after which I felt much more like myself.
We walked a total distance of just under 12km.
This was around halfway up to the pass. I was still basically fine, but already aware it was going to be tough.
This was just before we came out into the sun.
This was in the last stages. Much was made by various guides of the importance of breathing in through your nose and then blowing out through your mouth. I'm honestly not convinced it helped.
Made It! This taken after I'd had a sit down, eaten a snack and cooled off a little.
This is the offical signpost for the pass. Apparently it is called Dead Woman's Pass because the mountains look like a reclining woman.
View from the tent on the second day.
We were on modern trails, according to Wilbert, and although I think we passed some Inca ruins at a campsite en route, we didn't look at them. Wilbert's explanation for the route wasn't entirely clear. As I understood it the original Inca road went over a different pass, though I never figured out if it was higher or lower. I got the impression a large section of the road from Cusco to Machu Picchu was destroyed by the Inca themselves, triggering landslides, in order to prevent the Spanish finding their way along it, so maybe that explains why we were following a modern alternative.
We started at about 3000m. At around 3,700m I began to feel quite tired and a little concerned about the 500m still go. At 3,900m as we came out of the shade and into the sun, my legs felt like lead and I made it up to the pass only by doggedly walking 300 steps and then stopping (300 steps, if you are interested, gets you up about 50m). At the time we put this down to the fact Manchester is super-flat and so our uphill muscles don't get a lot of exercise. However, I wasn't remotely stiff the next day, at which point it occured to us to measure my blood oxygen using my watch. It was down at 81%, rising to 88% if I took several deep breaths (B., in contrast was generally in the high 80s/low 90s). So it's possible the issue was lack of blood oxygen - even though I wasn't showing any other symptoms of altitude sickness.
Once over the pass we descended around 600m to our campsite. I badly wanted to go to sleep, but B. and Wilbert forced me to have some lunch first. Then I slept for an hour, after which I felt much more like myself.
We walked a total distance of just under 12km.
This was around halfway up to the pass. I was still basically fine, but already aware it was going to be tough.
This was just before we came out into the sun.
This was in the last stages. Much was made by various guides of the importance of breathing in through your nose and then blowing out through your mouth. I'm honestly not convinced it helped.
Made It! This taken after I'd had a sit down, eaten a snack and cooled off a little.
This is the offical signpost for the pass. Apparently it is called Dead Woman's Pass because the mountains look like a reclining woman.
View from the tent on the second day.
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